Sugested Puppy Supplies
Here is a list of what has worked for me - everything from collars to dishes and a few optional items. I also put links to retailers that sell these products for your convenience. If you need anything for your puppy, please support this site by using these links to purchase from our affiliates. Most are products I've used personally and recommend highly or know someone that swears by it. Every puppy needs a few things on hand when it goes home, just like any baby!
Collar A nylon or rolled leather, buckle puppy collar,
not more than 3/4" wide (this will be outgrown quickly so often an adjustable
collar is better) with an identification tag is best. The rolled leather is easy on the neck fur, but they are easier to slip out of. Never leave a choke chain or prong collar on your dog when you aren't actively training (it can be very dangerous). As an adult, a limited slip
collar is my favorite. Avoid the ones with plastic buckles if your dog pulls when you go for a walk - they can easily snap the plastic buckles with their strength - even as a young puppy.
6 foot leash (preferably leather - easier on
the hands and leather is usually required for any obedience classes). A four foot leather leash can give you better control when your dog gets older. A 6 ft. nylon leash is ok for walks with a trained dog, but your hands can get a nasty burn if you try to hold one with a pulling puppy. I never recommend chain leashes, they can be painful or even dangerous if you accidentally get it wrapped around a finger or paw. So hands down, leather is the best.
A fenced yard or large pen, double checked for small openings a puppy
could squeeze out of and with a securely latched gate. I'll say it again - NO INVISIBLE FENCES!!! Malamutes have too high a pain threshold, and are too prey driven to stay inside them. (And they don't keep the neighbor's chihuahua from being eaten either!). There are many kinds of fences - we've used wood privacy (my favorite, though they take more maintenance than chain link) and chain link (sturdy but if you have strays in the neighborhood expect some fence fighting). Of course there are block, cement, and pasture fence and of course your idyllic white picket fence. Many new subdivisions do not allow fences of any kind - this is something to investigate BEFORE you get a malamute!
A rake, comb and slicker brush for grooming. A slicker brush is nice for quick touch-ups and getting lots of shed fur out, but is not adequate for everyday grooming. A greyhound comb is very nice to "line comb" (get deep down)and comb out a normal coat. A rake works almost as well as a greyhound comb, and is a little easier on the wrist. Do not get ONLY a pin brush - they are good for quick touch ups and not much else. They don't get down to the skin so are not your best option.
For puppy toenails, temporarily a pair of cheap human clippers will do - the $1 kind you find in the dimestore. But for an adult, you will need the most heavy duty dog clippers you can find. These are strong, and easy to use. My pair has lasted forever! Do not get the guillitine type clippers, you need something more substantial as most mals have very large toenails.
A large dog crate & inexpensive SAFE bedding. (It probably will get chewed on. Save the designer dog bed until he's older). We have PetMate Vari-Kennels and feel they are the best plastic crates as the side windows hold up well to even a determined puppy. If you prefer metal, Midwest makes the best metal crates - get a folding one in case you decide to store it later or take it with you when you travel.
Training treats - something small and tasty! Most dogs love cheese, bacon and other meaty flavors. With a mal they will convince you they are starving and need MORE MORE MORE so buy the tiniest treats you can find. I haven't tried these, but they are low fat and that is a good thing. If any one tries them, send me a review and I'll post it here.
2 unbreakable med-large bowls. We've used stainless steel, ceramic and plastic. Some people feel the plastic ones cause "snow nose" (I'm skeptical about that, but whatever...). Plain metal ones are just fine, but some puppies like to carry them around. Most won't carry ceramic bowls around...
Training Enroll your puppy in a Malamute-friendly obedience school. Find a school that uses lots of positive reinforcement and treats to train. Make sure the instructor does not have an attitude - we've found many are very negative toward large, independent minded dogs (like Malamutes).
A large bag of high-quality puppy food for the first few months. After that you'll want to switch to adult food so he/she doesn't get fat. We personally prefer ProPlan or even Purina Dog Chow. Most Mal puppies love anything with a fish "flavor". I would be careful about foods with large quantities of milk products as some Mals can be lactose intolerant (Innova, Science Diet for example). If yours isn't, that's fine, but not a fun thing to find out after you've spent weeks trying to figure out where the diarrhea is coming from!
Pedigree Large Breed Dog Food (40 lbs.)
Purina Pro Plan Puppy Giant Breed Formula Dog Food (37.5 lb. )
A veterinary appointment arranged as soon as the puppy goes home;: to get his next shots, heartworm preventative, a stool check and a general health check-up. The vet will check for worms, strong heartbeat, and anything abnormal. Find out from your breeder before you go just what problems may be lurking in their lines (everyone has something - don't let them tell you differently!). Expect to return to your vet 2-3 times those first weeks - for fecals, for more shots and for well-puppy checkups.
LOTS of safe toys (rawhides, booda-bones, fleecy dog toys, balls, safe squeekies, nylabones, chew hooves). Be careful of Greenies and Nylabones as these have caused blockages - the flavored variety is particularly dangerous to mals who will want to EAT them (not just chew). Also, Nylabones cannot be seen on x-rays. Start out with the really safe toys, and then, once you know if your pup is a hoarder or shredder, then you can clean out the store!
More about Safe Toys - The Dead Toy Gallery
A pooper scooper or shovel. They also have those nice little bags that fit in your pockets for walks (though recycled grocery bags will do just fine).
An enzyme odor and stain remover. Nature's Miracle is my favorite, but there are other really good brands too. Just make sure it has ENZYMES. Natures' Miracle now has a version for laundry - haven't tried it yet, but it looks great! Imagine, good smelling pet laundry!
Baby Gates They aren't just for babies! They are a great way to keep your mal out of trouble when he's not in his crate. Strategically placed, they can still let him roam the house, but roam with supervision where you want to allow him to go.
Schedule vacation time so you can be with the
pup for the first two weeks, or plan for someone to play with and let the
puppy out during the day.
Listerine or Bitter Apple to discourage chewing woodwork or furniture. Plus it's funny watching the puppy's expression when he decides to chew: Chew Toy $5, Furniture $500, puppy's face when he tries to chew the sofa (and you have bitter apple on it) - Priceless!
Lots of film and a camera for all the cute things he
does! And a way to share all those great photos with your caring breeder. (Thanks Mark & Laura for all those cool pics of Frosty & Jack you shared with me on EasyShare!)
Don't forget the breeder's phone number for any questions - you'll have many!
And if you have a wooly malamute - dog clippers (note: often the cheaper brands of clippers made for people won't work on dogs). Andis is the clipper I have and I love it! It was my Christmas present a ew years ago. Clippers are also great for trimming feet on a normal-coated dog. A lot quicker and safer than scissors. The dogs say it tickles their feet though!
A dremel tool works great for doing nails. It makes them smoother and some dogs tolerate it better than nail clippers.
A high-velocity blow dryer for after-bath drying is a good investment and much faster than hand-held "people" dryers. This is the one I use - it has a llot of power and has held up well for several years with almost no maintenance.
If you plan to show your puppy - a grooming table is a necessity. Get something sturdy and nonskid at a comfortable height. It's a lot easier to get a puppy used to a grooming table when he's young. If you wait until you actually need it, it's more difficult to get him to stand on it without trying to jump off.
A flexi-lead is nice for walks - it stretches out quite far which gives your malamute a feeling of freedom, but with control.